Friday, August 24, 2012

Good Times at Sierra Vintners pre-harvest BBQ

Gatherings of the clan are sometimes filled with tall tales, intra-family negotiations, and undercurrents of unresolved tensions.  It's what makes big wine tasting events so much fun; beyond the opportunity to taste lots of interesting wines, there is opportunity to fill a reporter's notebook with plot lines for a reality TV show.

Let me report that this was NOT the case at the pre-harvest get together of Sierra Vintners, a group of 15 wineries that grow grapes and make wines in the Nevada County and lower Placer County parts of the Sierra Foothills.  It's just all good times!

On the plaza at Sierra Starr Vineyards
Phil Starr of Sierra Starr Vineyards hosted the event.  Seventy winery owners, winemakers, and family members showed up, and a few of the members of the press who cover this region consistently.  I fall into the following category, as one of the firm advocates of Sierra Foothills wines and wineries, and I write about them frequently in my Wine Time column in the Tahoe Weekly magazine.  So I got an invite and hauled my Tahoe Weekly editor along to meet the clan.

Rob Chrisman of Avanguardia was the genius on the grill, and there are some pretty good cooks who made salads and appetizers too.   Whoever you are, may I have the baked bean recipe?   Outstanding!

Everyone brought wine.  This was so much better (for me) than going to a tasting where I have to tromp from store to store or winery to winery.   It was all there, and so I tasted (and, reluctantly, spit) my way through 25 wines.   Here are some of my new favorites:

Bent Metal Chardonnay


Henry Coufos and Janet Wheeling
Smith Chardonnay

Fawnridge Viognier

Coufos Rhone Blend

Lucchesi Merlot

When I started getting red splotches on my notebook, I stopped writing and just enjoyed the jokes, camaraderie, slaps on the shoulder, and tried not to trip over the winery dog. 

This is a great group of wine folks, producing wines with taste, texture, heart and happiness.  If you are not familiar with the wines of Nevada County and lower Placer County, click over to the Sierra Vintners website, map out a route and go.


Thursday, August 23, 2012

Sierra Foothills/Nevada County Veraison Report and Water Notes: Montoliva/Chicago Park & Sierra Starr/Grass Valley

Mark L. Henry of Montoliva Vineyard & Winery, Chicago Park, CA., writes:

“ Ripening is more spotty than I would have thought it would be. Bloom tends to come later at 2,300' elevation than most other areas of Northern California, and the June 4th thunderstorm (with some hail mixed in) may have thrown my Sangiovese and Aglianico off its game. Lots of green fruit mixed in with the ripening fruit. 

Starting this weekend I will go through and drop perhaps a third to a half of the fruit that hasn't turned. Right now I'm anticipating harvest at the end of September...which, while later than most of the rest of the state, is still better than the Halloween harvest we had last year.”

ABOUT WATER: “Here in Nevada County we are pretty far up-stream, so no real issue with water availability. Here at Montoliva Vineyard & Winery we use drip irrigation.”

Phil Starr of Sierra Starr Winery and Starr Vineyards, Grass Valley, Nevada County, reports:

Sierra Starr vineyards Aug 2012
in late afternoon sun
”We have veraison in all our varieties. Crop looks extremely good at this point. Forecasted weather is perfect for finishing off this crop. Harvest dates look about normal. Was expecting early but believe the crop is large enough to counter early spring.”







HISTORICAL TIDBIT about CHICAGO PARK:

“Chicago Park was originally settled by first generation Italian Americans that immigrated here from Chicago, Illinois.  Chicago Park and the vineyards therein bear witness to their desire to create a community in the unsettled west that in many ways reflected their homeland.  “

Wednesday, August 22, 2012

Sierra Foothills/Yuba Veraison Report & Water Notes: Lucero Winery, Dobbins


Dan and Marian Lucero, owners of Lucero Winery in the Northern part of Yuba County, write as follows: 
“We have just a small vineyard (4 acres) and a boutique winery on the premises.  Our crop has just turned color over the last two weeks.  We usually don't pick our varietals (Cabernet Sauvignon & Merlot) until the end of September, or the first part of October.  Since it has been so hot, we figure harvest time will be the end of September. 
Our vineyard is set up on a timed drip system.  Fortunately, we have not had a water problem as we have a natural spring with a deep well.  And also fortunately, we haven't heard that anyone else is having a water problem in our area. 
Our crop looks much heavier this year than in previous years, probably because we did not have any frost or freeze.”

A bit about Lucero Winery:  Lucero Vineyards & Winery is owned by Dan and Marian Lucero on family owned property dating back to 1906 that’s located in Dobbins, California, 72 miles northeast of Sacramento in the Sierra Nevada Foothills.  Years prior to the vineyards being planted, the Lucero family ran cattle and farmed these gentle slopes amongst the Ponderosa Pine trees.  Then they looked for other uses of their land.

After his retirement as a teacher, Dan & Marian decided to start a vineyard. They and their children took many viniculture classes at U.C. Davis and with the help of their four daughters and their families, they hand planted the first vineyard of Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay rootstock in 1993. The Merlot vineyard followed in 1997; it was hand planted with potted bench grafts.

These estate vineyards produce small crops of intensely flavored grapes. The combination of warm days, cool nights and rich red clay soil contributes to Lucero wines’ deep color, elegant flavors and full-bodied nature.

Ther emphasis is on growing and making limited production, ultra premium wines.



Never heard of Dobbins?  Well, here’s the fascinating Sierra historical scoop, courtesy of quick Internet research:  Dobbins (formerly, Dobbin, Dobbins Ranche, Dobbins Ranch, and Dobbin's Ranche) is an unincorporated community in Yuba County, California. It lies 26 miles (42 km) northeast of Marysville, at an elevation of 1742 feet, in the foothills of the western Sierra Nevada Mountain Range off of Highway 20 and Marysville Road. Dobbins is north of Oregon House and south of Bullards Bar Dam. Dobbins has one post office, one general store, 2 churches, a grange hall, one grade school, one charter school, and Lake Francis Resort. The town was settled in 1849, and named for William M. and Mark D. Dobbins, early settlers. The first post office was established in 1851 under the name Dobbins Ranche; it closed in 1854. The post office returned in 1887 and has operated continuously since. A mining camp, Kentucky Ranch,was located 1.5 miles (2.4 km) to the southwest.

Tuesday, August 21, 2012

Sierra Foothills/Amador Veraison Report & Water Notes: Karly Wines, Plymouth


Lawrence L “Buck” Cobb, president of Karly Wines, Plymouth, Amador County writes:  “After a late start and cool spring and early summer, the weather has been perfect, even with the recent week-long 100 degree-spell – it  set the taste in Zinfandel!  We are on track to start harvest at the normal time after Labor Day."

” We dry farm, so who cares about water? Labor supply, now there is something to worry about.”

Buck Cobb
Buck adds this P.S.:   "Incidentally, we just sold Karly winery to Turley Wine Cellars of St Helena. Karly and I are very happy to lay down the load and live a little after thirty-two years. This is a gain for Amador County.”   


Lava Cap Pairs Wine and Events at their Placerville Winery

All in a day’s trip from Lake Tahoe, Placerville’s Lava Cap Winery offers the chance to taste incredible wines and participate in events like white water rafting, painting and sipping in the vineyard, sunset concerts, cooking classes, Wine 101 seminars, Harvest 101 seminars, and more.


Aimee Rebmann guides us
Barbara "paints"

I enjoyed the Lava Cap "Sip Wine & Paint" Event a few weeks ago. I was guided through painting a vineyard scene by Aimee Rebmann. “No experience needed to create an amazing painting--all while you sip your favorite Lava Cap wines!” The event lived up to the promise. The next event is August 25.


Lava Cap is one of my favorite Sierra Foothill wineries. Their Barbera is one of my few “! AHA !” wines. It is typical of the varietal but oh so good. At $25 a bottle (less for wine club members), it’s a spectacular find. But beyond the good wine, Lava Cap has made a point of helping wine lovers enjoy a tasting experience. Get on their newsletter list! Upcoming events include:


Wine & Sunsets. Every Saturday, August 18 through September 29, 2012, 4-7pm . Sip Lava Cap wine, watch the beautiful sunset views from their deck and garden area, and enjoy live music until dusk.


Red Wine, Whitewater Adventures This is a two-day red wine and white water adventure. Rafting the South Fork of the American River and visiting Lava Cap for wine tastings. Now finished for 2012, but sure to resume in 2013!


Lava Cap Winery began in 1981. The Jones family purchased an old 64-acre pear farm after a year-long state-wide search for premium vineyard land. David Jones, a professional geologist at USGS and later UC Berkeley, knew the critical role that soil plays with premium wines. This land has volcanic soil of modest depth, gentle sloping terrain with numerous microclimates, a high elevation providing moderate temperatures for even ripening, and an abundance of pure mountain water. The residual “lava cap” topography eroded from the volcanic activity in the Sierra Nevada millions of years ago.


Tom Jones, winemaker
Lava Cap Winery has always been a family affair, and sons Tom and Charlie and their wives and now children are all involved. The first varietals planted were Zinfandel, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, then Charlie assumed the role of vineyard manager and added Petite Sirah, Barbera, Syrah, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Tom got his MA in Enology & Viticulture at UC Davis, and is a talented winemakers.

The Lava Cap style is one of elegant, textured-driven wines. The wines continue to win awards, including recent accolades for the Syrah 2009, Barbera 2009, and Cabernet Sauvignon 2009.


Visit Lava Cap Winery at 2221 Fruitridge Rd, Placerville. The tasting room is open 11 to 5 daily. For maps, directions and to register for events or buy wines online, go to www.lavacap.com

Tastes from the 2012 Barbera Festival

The 2012 Barbera Festival, held in early June at Cooper Ranch in the Shenandoah Valley near Plymouth, CA, brought 1,700 wine aficionados together to taste Barbera from more than 80 wineries from Camarillo north to Kelseyville, with the majority of participants coming from the Sierra Foothills and Lodi. This second annual Festival was sold out three months early!

Barbera is a lesser-known, and often overlooked, varietal of wine grape. The Barbera grape was first imported into California in 1884, and was used by the Italian Swiss Colony winery in its table wines. The first Barbera varietal (a wine with the name of the dominant grape on the label) was brought to market in 1954 by Louis Martini. Today in California, some 7,000 acres are planted in Barbera, and nearly 200 wineries make at least one style of the varietal.


Barbera originated in the Piemonte region of northern Italy. On the nose, Barbera is typically lush and juicy, with aromas of black fruits. Depending on the terroir and the winemaker, Barbera vintages can convey bright flavors of raspberry, spice, and tart cherry, or more supple notes of black cherry, blueberry, and vanilla.


Urban Legend "trio"
Marilee Shaffer, co-owner of Oakland’s Urban Legend Cellars noted that Barbera is a “Cinderella” of a grape that has been in large part relegated to use as a blending grape. But when treated property, she said, “Barbera can really become the Belle of the Ball.” Urban Legend presented a trio of Barbera, including a refreshing 2010 Rosatto and 2009 red from Holland Landing vineyard, and a 2009 Amador Barbera. The 2009 Amador Barbera is bright cherry and cassis on the nose, dark cherry and cola on the palate. 15.2 percent alcohol. $26. www.ulcellars.com


The 2010 Boa Vista Reserve Barbera, from Oakstone Winery in Fair Play delivered a surprisingly Zinfandel-like punch of black pepper, following plum and blackberry aromas. 14.7 percent alcohol. $28. www.oakstone-winery.com


Sherri Compton pours
Easton Wines. Plymouth
(Amador County)
Plymouth-based Easton Wines plured a 2005-2007 vertical from the same four rows of Cooper Ranch fruit. The older vintage tasted plump and jammy, while the younger two were bright and full of spice. The Easton 2007 Shenandoah Valley Barbera is rich, balanced and juicy, with a pleasing spiciness. 14.5 percent alcohol. $24. www.eastonwines.com



The 2009 and 2009 Barbera from Lodi’s D’art winery is made from grapes grown by Leland Noma . Both vintages exhibit related-but-not-identical flavor characteristics. The D’art 2010 Lodi Barbera has bright cherry, earth and berry-like flavors, with a long finish. 15.4 percent alcohol. $24. www.dartwines.com

Other photos from the event:

Crystal Basin Winery, Placerville
(El Dorado County)- Jack Wohler pours

Margie Runquist of Jeff Runquist Winery,
Plymouth (Amador County)


















Michael Havill of Bella Grace,
Plymouth (Amador County)


Tom & Thomas Dillian,
Dillian Wines (Amador County)
























Peter Nowack
Barbara’s fellow blogger, Peter Nowack, is today’s guest columnist. He is the wine lover behind the BungRCooper.com wine blog, and is founding partner of northern-California based WEmarketwine.
 

Taste of Gold from El Dorado Wineries

I’d heard in the past about the wonderful Gourmet Food and Wine Tasting fundraiser for Lake Tahoe Community College, but I can now say with assurance: put the Taste of Gold event on your calendar for next year. Held on campus in South Lake Tahoe, this event featured 10 El Dorado/Sierra Foothill wineries and 8 wonderful restaurants who prepared tastes that paired well with the wines.


Laurie Dishman of
Mount Aukum Winery
Mount Aukum winery served its 2007 Apogee. This is an El Dorado Rhone varietals blend of 40% syrah, 30% petite syrah, 20% cabernet franc, and 10% merlot. Blends are becoming more popular in all categories and regions of wine, and winemaker Michel Prodhon has recently been “Club Apogee” giving blending seminars for the trade and for consumers. This wine is the outcome of such a seminar and is a robust red with plum flavor predominating. Truly yummy. 14.8 per cent alcohol, $30/bottle. www.mountaukum.com


Jim Brown of
Sierra Oaks Esates
SIerra Oaks makes its 2006 Petite Sirah in a Burgundian style. This Petite has a unique and interesting floral nose. I enjoyed the licorice flavor, which is a nice complement to this rich fruity Petite. It has a nice roundness in the mid palate, giving the impression of sweetness. The finish is smooth. 13.6 per cent alcohol, $21/bottle. www.sierraoaksestates.com


Connie Varvais and her husband,
Holly's Hill Vineyards
Holly’s Hill Vineyards served a refreshing 2011 Viognier, perfect for a summer evening. Despite the difficulty in pronouncing this varietal (vee-ohn-yay), it is a delightful Rhone grape that in this instance brought to mind a fruit-cocktail flavor. “Imagine a bowl of peaches, pears and grapes all tossed with a lilac and lavender dressing,” said tasting room manager Connie Varvais. This wine is crisp, not sugary, and nicely mouth-filling. 13.6 per cent alcohol, $20/bottle. www.hollyshill.com


Nello Olivo of
Nello Olivo Winery
Nello Olivo Winery poured a 2007 Toscanello, one of many Italian wines in which they specialize. This red blend is 60% sangiovese, 20% cabernet, and 20% merlot. Marco Cappelli is the well-known winemaker. A full bodied wine with aromas of dark cherry, blueberry, cigar box & eucalyptus, it has a long and friendly finish that features a variety of acidity levels and a good tannic structure. If you can resist drinking it right away, it will age well for 6 to 10 years. 14.5 per cent alcohol, $50/bottle. www.nelloolivo.com



Other El Dorado wineries pouring were Colibri Ridge Winery, Crystal Basin Cellars, Grace Patriot Wines, Lava Cap, MadroƱa Vineyards, and Perry Creek Winery. It’s a great and easy day trip from Tahoe to taste the wonderful wines of El Dorado county.
Lava Cap
Crystal Basin









 
 
All proceeds from this event benefit Lake Tahoe Community College Foundation, which supports scholarships and College programs. Find out more at www.ltcc-edu/foundation and get on the notification list for next year’s event!